Trans-Siberian: Ulaan Bataar to Irkutsk

It’s Sunday morning and we’re squashed into Ochidara Temple, one of the few Monasteries in Ulaan Bataar that wasn’t torn down during the Stalinist ‘purging’ of the country. During this period nearly 800 Buddhist temples were destroyed across Mongolia. Our guide Dava has bought us here, driving us out of the Darkhid Valley into the … Continue reading Trans-Siberian: Ulaan Bataar to Irkutsk


Trans-Siberian: Adventures in Mongolia

The light is so bright it penetrates my eyelids and tugs me sharply away from sleep. It’s a pure, saturating kind of light, and it could only come from Mongolian skies. I lean down from my train bunk to peer out the dusty window, and sure enough there’s a vast, pinkish wilderness flitting by: the … Continue reading Trans-Siberian: Adventures in Mongolia